The Facility
 Here
are a few photos of my facility. The "snake pit",
as it is called by my non-herper friends, is the basement
of my house. The room is about 25' x 18' and includes
a 1/2 bathroom. When I moved in, the electrical system
in the house was very old. Due to the large amount
of power needed to run all of the equipment in the
room, I had all of the wiring re-done, just to be
on the safe side. I have quad outlets every 4' on
center, most of them on their own dedicated circuit.
Good air circulation is provided in the room by a
floor fan. Due to frequent power outages in my area,
I have also connected a generator.
Most
of my adult animals are housed in Vision model 222
cages. They are each equipped with a Pro-Products
radiant heat panel, a fluorescent light. Each bank
of cages is controlled by a Helix thermostat. The
snakes are given a hot spot of 88-90 degrees directly
under the heat panel for 12 hours a day. The cool
side of the cage fluctuates with the ambient room
temperature. I also have one bank of Freedom Breeder
glass display cages which are set up the same way.
I use cypress mulch as a substrate in all adult enclosures.
I
keep babies and sub-adults in racks built by Habitat
Systems. The racks have heated shelves, and the heat
area is maintained at 85 degrees by a thermostat.
While I do leave the heat spot on all the time, the
night time drop of ambient heat in the room, combined
with good air circulation, cools the tubs considerably.
Ambient heat in the room is controlled
by an oil radiator hooked up to a 1500W Helix thermostat.
The thermostat is set on a timer for a day time temperature
of 83 and a night time temperature of 79. During the
winter months, when the snakes are being cycled for
breeding, I lower the night temperature to 69-70 degrees.
For
an incubator, I use a 160 qt Igloo marine cooler that
I have outfitted with a few feet of heat tape and
a Helix thermostat. I keep a few sealed jugs of water
in the cooler to give it some mass and temperature
stability. I keep one open shoebox of water in the
cooler to keep humidity up. The eggs are placed in
open shoeboxes with a 3'' - 4'' layer of damp vermiculite
(mixed at a 1:1 ratio, by weight, with water). The
egg boxes are left uncovered. I incubate at a constant
temperature of around 87 degrees. At this temperature,
eggs typically hatch in around 52-54 days. I have
used this cooler for the past three breeding seasons
with great sucess. All at a cost of under $200.
In my opinion, the keys to successful
breeding are good control of ambient room tempertatures,
and getting your animals on a yearly cycle. With a
little equipment and a ton of patience, you can be
hatching your own baby chondros in no time!
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